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Syno multipunctatus info pls

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Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: BLUNDZ » Wed Nov 16, 2011 19:04

Anyone know. . .

If they are easily sexable at around the two inch size ?

How many would be a good number to have in a well stocked 300 ltr mbuna tank ?

And in what ratios of male+females? to give a sporting chance of them doing their thing at some point in time.

thanking you

Blundz :D

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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: Rick » Wed Nov 16, 2011 19:35

They are a very hard fish to sex at any size m8, impossible at 2". The only way I have found while researching is to watch them at it. The Males will push the females through the mating cichlids. Ideally you want more males than females 2/3 to 1 would be ideal. I've a group of 5 in my 260 ltr tank, but not been able to sex any of them yet.
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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: johnlfc » Wed Nov 16, 2011 22:57

Watching this one with interest for any feedback. I was thinking of adding a group of these to my tank. Either those or Synodontis Lucipinis not decided yet.
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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: SHAQS77 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 17:10

ive got 2 males to 3 females in my tank and the males do squable.

dont know where i read it but you can sex them by looking underneath whilst they are in the tank, the males have a sort of 'small' penis sticking out. after i read that i looked at my tank and it sounds correct as my dominate syno does have a penis thingy sticking out.

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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: Didgeridoo » Mon Nov 21, 2011 18:57

First off, just to make things more confusing, there's actually two species of "Cuckoos". The true Syno. multipunctatus gets quite large, up to 8 inches and have a more pointed snout, smaller eyes, and 8 pectoral fin rays. The more commonly available Syno. grandiops only grow to 4.5 inches, has a more rounded head, large eyes, and 7 pectoral fin rays. The fin ray count is the best way to separate them, however it is difficult to keep the little beggers still! Either way, they act the same, look very similar and are a pleasure to keep.

Once mature they're very easy to determine sex. They'll start spawning at 2 years of age and size isn't really the determining factor in that. I have a couple that I received from other aquarists that stunted them and they've topped out at 2.5 inches. My largest is a female and she's over 4 inches. My buddy brought in a large shipment of wild caught multies a few years back and they came from 2 inches all the way up to 8 inches. Was pretty neat to see.

Males have a 2-4mm genital papillae which is visible just anterior of the vent. When viewed from the side in the aquarium it is easily visible. This however is not present until they are mature. Prior to the 2 year mark, sexing is practically impossible.

Females have a much more robust looking body that is more rounded, especially in the belly. They also have a more rounded dorsal fin.

Mature male Cuckoo
Image

Mature female Cuckoo
Image

So far I've found the sex ratio to not be that big of a deal. They will establish their own hierarchy no matter what ratio you have and a dominant male and a dominant female will reign supreme over the rest. They can be aggressive with one another but the best solution is dilution and crowding. I have bred them in tanks as small as 35-gallons but I would recommend them in larger tanks. I currently have 10 in a 90-gallon and 5 in a 50-gallon. Both groups are doing equally well.

If you're keeping mbuna or haps I would suggest multies over lucipinnis. The latter are much less robust and much more peaceful. I've found that mbuna especially can pick on them a bit. Multies on the other hand don't take any **poo** from cichlids. They won't hesitate to retaliate and chase that cichlid until it has learned its lesson. They don't pick fights however, just end them.

Image

If you only have 2 or 3 multies they can be aggressive and secretive I've found. With adding a few more to the group they become much more sociable and active during daylight hours.

Multies can live up to 20 years in the aquarium. My dominant pair are over 7 years old. I've kept mine with all sorts of hosts and some of the best I've found so far have been Labidochromis sp. "perlmutt", Astatotilapia nubila, and Pseudotropheus acei. People I've talked to like to use the Metriaclima zebra types with large, wide mouths. I never had a problem with the other species though. It's important to strip the females within 10 days however, as the fry will out grow the mouth opening and start eating eachother once they're eaten all the cichlid eggs.

Raising the fry is relatively easy. They grow incredibly fast! They are very hungry and it's important to keep them full, otherwise they'll eat eachother without hesitation. They will eat anything and it's important to keep their water clean. With heavy feedings and ample water changes you can grow them to 1.5-2 inches within the first 2 months! Then they slow right down and seem to take forever to grow after that. But they're the perfect fish to breed and sell!

Hope that answers some questions. All in all, they're a blast to keep and breed, and well...just get them already!

Nick

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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: johnlfc » Mon Nov 21, 2011 20:03

Excellent post Nick :good: :good:

Certainly helped me decide what I'm doing. Think a group of 8 or so will do me nicely.
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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: Nads » Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:30

Excellent post - going to be counting rays when I get home to see which I have. They are first gen from wild and still quite small although growing very fast, think biggest is around 3 inch at present and smallest at the 1.5 mark.

Don't think they are sexable yet but will see (if I can get the little blighters to stay still long enough :lol: )
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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: Peter » Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:10

Hi Nick,

Very good post, great pictures. Lots of good info there. For those that wish to try their hand at breeding these great cats, one thing to remember do, if your not stripping is not to use too small a host fish. What i found out in the past using 12cm+ Copadichromis Kadango red fins worked for me. I didnt strip them and from my breeding group of 2 males to 10 females, i had young synos in every brood. I had a group of 6 S. Multipunctatus with them. It was a great setup but after a few years, i decided to try my hand in spawning other Synodontis , which youve seen by my pictures of the Synodontis lucipinnis.
After Nicks post i may try and get myself some new WC Synodontis multipunctatus or Synodontis grandiops but most of the time these 2 species arrive together from Africa.

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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: Didgeridoo » Tue Nov 22, 2011 18:03

Thanks gang for your comments.

Definitely using bigger hosts is ideal for a couple reasons. First off like I mentioned, the cat fry can outgrow the mouth opening of the host and potentially get stuck. Secondly, the larger the host, the more eggs she can ultimately carry, which in turn results in more kitties. ;)

When I was breeding them steadily I only had a smaller tank to work with, 50-gallons (200L). Someone offered me a group of perlmutts for a steal of a price and it was a perfect breeding group for the cats at the time and given the space restrictions. It was 3m 12f and they bred constantly! I had to remove females after stripping them because they would hold the very next day and wouldn't even eat! The most cat fry I got was 14 out of a mouthful from a 2.5-inch female perlmutt! The average though was 6-10 cat fry per mouthful.

Image
Here you can see the cat fry and the cichlid fry. There's a few cat fry that are devouring the cichlids in this picture. Crazy little beggers.

It's important to NOT put younger cat fry in with the older ones. They're very cannibalistic up until 2 months of age. They will literally eat things as big as them up until about a month old.

Nick

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Re: Syno multipunctatus info pls

PostAuthor: BLUNDZ » Tue Nov 22, 2011 20:15

That is a fabulous photo :shock: :D

Many thanks again.

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